Guadalajara: A Melange of Commerce and Colonial History
 Walter Roessing - St. Petersburg Times
| | AConstruction of Guadalajara's Metropolitan Cathedral began in 1558, but the structure, with its two gold spires, wasn't completed until 1618. The cathedral, Mexico's third-largest church, sits at the intersection of four plazas that form a cross. |
Guadalajara, Mexico - While waiting for my tour of colonial Guadalajara to begin, I glanced across the street at the city's 16th century cathedral. That's when Maria Espinosa caught my attention.
Radiant in the white organza of her first Communion dress, the child was standing with her parents on the cathedral steps. They were quickly joined, with much hugging and kissing, by a growing number of aunts, uncles, cousins and grandparents. I counted 45 in the smiling, camera-clicking group before it disappeared inside the cathedral.
Noticing my interest in the Espinosa family, tour guide Francisco Gomez told me, "Although Guadalajara is a city of 225 Catholic churches, many people will wait months to hold such important events as a marriage, baptism or first Communion in our cathedral. It's the city's Holy Grail."
Minutes later, Gomez led his group into the cathedral, the first stop on our tour of Guadalajara's important colonial sites.
Though begun in 1558, the enormous cathedral wasn't completed until 1618. As a result, what is now Mexico's third-largest church is a conglomeration of Byzantine, Corinthian, Tuscan, Gothic and Moorish influences, topped by a pair of 200-foot golden spires.
The cathedral is revered by Tapatios - the nickname for Guadalajara's residents - because it occupies the center of four major plazas that form the sign of the cross.
The city's 30-square-block Centro Historico is a marvel of interconnected pedestrian promenades, centuries-old plazas, fountains, gardens, sculptures and colonial buildings, all kept in immaculate condition like the illustrious cathedral.
Other highlights of the colonial era:
- The 195-year-old Cabanas Cultural Institute occupies 6 acres (more than 261,000 square feet), including 23 flower-filled patios. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, its more than 100 rooms include concert halls and art galleries, and it displays many works by renowned artist Jose Clemente Orozco.
- Just a few steps from the cathedral is Palacio Municipal, where murals depict the 1542 founding of Guadalajara by Nuno de Guzman, a cruel lieutenant of conquistador Hernando Cortez. Outside the palace, Tapatios feed the doves that nest in the cathedral's bell tower.
- Degollado Theatre is a 1,400-seat, neoclassic masterpiece of colonial architecture. It is modeled after Milan's La Scala opera house and opened in October 1866. For several years, Placido Domingo has sung in an opera here. At 10 a.m. each Sunday, the theater's own Folkloric Ballet performs.
But Mexico's second-largest metropolis (the area population is estimated at 5-million), is also considered the birthplace of the mariachi band. So on Saturday nights and Sunday afternoons, thousands of locals comes to the appropriately named Plaza of the Mariachis to relax, have a drink and watch performances by mariachi groups dressed in their colorful and traditional matching suits.
Guadalajara has year-round appeal, partly because at an elevation of nearly 1 mile, the city enjoys a springlike, semitropical climate. There are few weather extremes, though there is a moderate rainy season from mid June to late September.
Though Guadalajara is a major business hub, life seems casual here. The city is relatively cosmopolitan, with modern shopping centers, boutiques and elegant restaurants. It is noted for its beautiful parks, tree-lined boulevards and 149 fountains.
One of the more interesting shopping areas is the huge, trilevel Liberty Market, housing about 3,000 merchants who sell quality pottery, leather goods, sandals and clothing. Prices throughout Mexico are good for American visitors, especially compared with the dollar's weak status against European currencies.
Available outside the market are calandrias, a traditional horse-drawn coach, that provide rides around the Historical Center.
And just a 20-minute taxi ride from Guadalajara is Tlaquepaque (Tla-kay-PAH-kay), a town that has become popular for sales of locally made glass items, ceramics, tapestries, woodcarvings, jewelry and Mexican art.
Walter Roessing is a freelance writer living in La Mesa, Calif.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact the Mexico Tourism Board, toll-free 1-800-446-3942 or www.visitmexico.com |
Vallarta Weddings
Travel & Outdoors | November 2005 
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