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 Travel & Outdoors | September 2006 
Magical Mazatlan
 Chris Barron - Kitsap Sun
| | Two of Mazatlan's most common sights: a Senor Frog's outlet store and an open-air taxi. (Chris Barron/Kitsap Sun) |
Something drastically unexpected occurred on my recent honeymoon.
I fell in love with another.
She was beautiful, warm, kind and exciting. She was everything anyone would want and more.
Her first name was Mazatlan. Her last name Mexico.
Fortunately, my new wife Lani felt the same way, so I was off the hook. While enjoying our first 10 days as a married couple, we discovered the brilliance of the beaches, the warmth of the people, the goodness of the food and drinks and the all-around fun atmosphere of Mazatlan, located nearly halfway down Mexico's Pacific Coast.
And how could anyone not like a place whose economy is propelled by shrimp, tourism and beer?
Mexico's largest commercial seaport, Mazatlan, which boasts a population of 400,000, is one of that nation's most popular tourist destinations, providing a rich cultural and historical experience.
And, if you're looking to eat your way through Mexico, Mazatlan, with Mexico's largest shrimping fleet, provides more than enough top restaurants to fill your belly.
Although we arrived in late August just as tourist season was winding down, it was clear visitors and their plentiful pesos are appreciated in the city founded by Germans in the early 1800s.
It was our first trip to Mexico, so we were excited to explore a new place together as newlyweds. Plus, Lani felt a little at home in Mazatlan, as the weather (hot and humid) and countryside (palm trees and lush forests) were similar to Guam, where she spent most of her youth.
We were also pleasantly surprised to meet a large contingent of Pacific Northwesterners down there. More than half the people we met were from the Puget Sound, making it kind of a home away from home.
Although we encountered temperatures above 90 degrees and humidity above 90 percent on most days, even a Northwest lightweight like myself didn't find it too uncomfortable. Once you adjusted to the heat and changed your shirt three times a day it was fine.
old mazatlan
With beach-front high-rise condominiums popping up along Mazatlan's miles of beaches, the city's new growth is quite noticeable. More and more foreigners are making their part-time homes in Mexico, and Mazatlan is capitalizing on the trend.
However, it's Viejo Mazatlan, or Old Mazatlan, that defines the area and allows visitors and residents, called Mazatlecos, to separate themselves from the resort-style living that initially draws outsiders. The area features nearly 500 renovated buildings from the 19th century. And if you want to shop and eat where the locals do, head to Old Town, where the city's history and culture all but engulfs you.
Our first mistake when we arrived in Mazatlan was to head to a shopping mall to pick up a pair of swim trunks that I had failed to pack. Although the exchange rate was nearly 11 pesos to the dollar, we found mall prices to be more than in the United States.
A day later, we headed to "Old Town" straight for the "Old Market," or Mercado Municipal. We went for the clothes and trinket shopping, but the locals populate the open-air market for the coast's largest selection of fresh fruit and meat.
Your peso goes much further in the Old Market, or even with beach vendors, because you can bargain. With tourist-season at its low point, vendors everywhere were desperate for sales, so we came away with some pretty good bargains.
Sitting right next to the Old Market was Mazatlan's impressive Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, which has undergone a massive restoration over the past few years. The cathedral's two yellow twin towers can be seen from many points in the city, helping to guide you if you get lost.
Inside, the 19th century cathedral's many statutes and complex paintings leave you in awe as your eyes and brain try to process in the magnificent architecture and art work on display before you.
Through donations, tourists have greatly helped to fund the cathedral's restoration, so you are more than welcomed in the building. But aware that locals consider it their primary place of worship, we walked on the perimeter of the pews so as not to disturb their moments of prayer and contemplation.
Just a few blocks away from the cathedral is Old Mazatlan's historical center, called Plazuela Machado. It features the Angela Peralta Theater, one of the few 19th century opera houses and theaters still in operation in northwestern Mexico. The theater, which opened in 1874 and in ruins through the 1980s, was completely restored to its current magnificence in the early 1990s.
The scope of the restoration isn't totally clear until you visit the theater's third-floor gallery and view 1980s photographs of the theater in near ruins, without a roof and the side seating nearly crumbling.
sun, sand and resorts
OK, what really draws tourists to Mazatlan, and any tropical part of Mexico, is the weather, the beaches and the resorts.
And, if you want to add the bars, the clubs, the beer, the alcohol and the guacamole to that list, you'd find little disagreement here.
We stayed in the north part of Mazatlan at a time-share resort called Torres Mazatlan. That side of town is packed with luxurious time-share and destination resorts. But, if you want to go on the cheap, there are plenty of hotels or homes you can rent.
Either way, you'll find yourself spending a large portion of your trip with sand or surf between your toes. All of Mazatlan's beaches none of which are private, by the way provide a relaxing experience that leaves you, well, not wanting to leave.
You'll get plenty of nice beach space at any resort you visit. The vast beach front along the city's five-mile boardwalk on the way to Old Mazatlan has plenty of eateries that the locals frequent. A nice touch is the lifeguards that are on duty along the boardwalk, keeping up Mazatlan's family-friendly reputation.
Many hotels, restaurants and even the city's lone casino, El Caliente, are located along with strip. It makes for a great walk on the boardwalk or on the beach.
If you don't have the kids along (and we certainly didn't on our honeymoon), the city's bars and resorts provide plenty of extended happy hours for you to get happy. Sipping on a Pacifico the locally produced beer or a margarita sure quenches your late afternoon thirst. But, once the sun goes down, that's when you really get your money's worth with the sunsets.
The brilliant oranges, yellows and reds light up the sky and leave you in awe as you wade in the warm ocean gazing at the horizon.
OUT AT NIGHT
Following those sunsets is a terrific nightlife scene that delivered even during the city's slowest tourist time.
Although the clubs weren't packed during the week like usual, we found plenty of places to get our groove on, listen to live music or enjoy a late-night drink.
Mazatlan's transportation system buses or taxis is excellent. There are three main bus routes that will get you anywhere pretty quickly for less than a dollar. However, if you want to go direct, grab a taxi.
Mazatlan's famous for its open-air cabs, or pulmonia, and the natural air-conditioning usually provides good relief from the heat. Like many heralded things in Mazatlan, you'll even find a statue of a pulmonia along the boardwalk.
The city regulates taxi prices from area to area, so there aren't any meters. Just make sure and ask the price before you step in the cab. Most cabbies we encountered were extremely helpful with advice on where to go and what to do.
In Mazatlan, or any Mexican resort town, you'll see Seρor Frogs dominating the landscape. The restaurant chain boasts numerous outlet clothing stores throughout the city. But it's the bar and restaurant, a somewhat American-themed establishment, that provides all the fun. We tried to try new places every night, but we found ourselves back at Senor Frogs several times, whether it be for a quick appetizer or a meal. It's a fun place, and we like fun.
Zona Dorada, or the "Golden Zone," in central Mazatlan has the most top and recommended restaurants in the city. It's also where many of the best bars and nightclubs are located.
We didn't have a meal we didn't fully enjoy. And if you're a seafood lover, just punch your ticket to heaven because whatever's swimming, jumping or hiding in the sea you'll find that night on your dinner plate. We had that kind of meal at El Capitano's with the seafood platter.
If you're looking for restaurant advice, ask locals, other tourists or cabbies. That's what we did and we weren't steered wrong any time. Many times, resorts and hotels have coupons to specific eateries.
Because we stayed in a condo, we saved money by eating breakfast and lunch at our place most days. One of the most interesting trips we made during our stay was to a big grocery store called "Mega." We bought $40 worth of groceries that more than lasted us for 10 days, but it was the experience of shopping and seeing the different offerings that added to the experience. Even if you don't need a lot of food, head to one of those big stores if not for the groceries, for the air conditioning.
worth the trip
When, not if, we go to Mazatlan again, Lani and I want to take our kids. Mazatlan is extremely family friendly with most resorts and restaurants catering to that market.
There are also plenty of side trips and tours into the Mexican countryside to fill up your days. Or, you can just hang out at the beach and relax. Not bad options.
And although we can't duplicate the weather back home, we can certainly replicate the taste of Mazatlan.
On a few occasions, we've brought out the lime, salt and a Pacifico to bring us back to our new found love.
if you go ...
Our complaint, and one we heard from other travelers, is there isn't a good, all-around Mazatlan travel Web site. But, we sort of enjoyed discovering the city on our own anyway.
Some Mazatlan Web sites are listed below, but the best advice we got was from one regular visitor who joined the Yahoo! chat group "Mazinfo." He said he got all his best tips on travel deals from that chat group. Otherwise, here are some Web sites that will give you some general pre-trip info:
www.go2mazatlan.com - www.maztravel.com - www.pacificcoasttravelinfo.com
SIDE TRIPS
Your resort or hotel can set you up with reputable tour companies around Mazatlan. We took two tours that were well worth the journey. Here's a quick synopsis:
'Mexican Amazon'
The "Mexican Amazon" is located four hours from Mazatlan. On the way there, you get a great sense of the Mexican countryside as you head near San Blas, a small resort town. Before we took our jungle journey, we toured an early 19th century stone fort where the Mexicans fought off of the Spanish.
Then, we headed out a boat through what's called the dense jungle. With tons of wlldlife, including alligators, you get a good feel of life inside the jungle. The trip cost $99 per person, but it was well worth it.
Los Osuna Tequila Factory
Just 45 minutes from Mazatlan, this was a fun tour and why not, it's to the state of Sinaloa's lone tequila factory. The trip to the Los Osuna farm/factory was an insightful tour in how tequila is made.
You drive through a field of blue agave, which grows 7 years before its harvested. It then goes through several steps before it becomes pure tequila, made of 70 percent alcohol. We got to sip the pure tequila, which was smooth going down, but sure burned soooo good.
You can buy your own bottle of Los Osuna tequila at the factory for 300 pesos, or about $27. |
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