 |
|
|
 Travel & Outdoors | December 2007 
Quaintly Real
 Jorge Sanhueza-Lyon - American-Statesman
go to original
| | Where silver once drew travelers to the Catorce mountains of Real de Catorce, now tourism and adventure activities bring in outsiders. The town that almost disappeared after the silver rush ended at the beginning of the 20th century is vibrant again with an art scene. (Jorge Sanhueza-Lyon/American-Statesman) |
Visitors to Real de Catorce flock to the tiny town of ruins for stunning views, a taste of cultural tradition and emerging arts scene.
Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosi — You won't find any four-star resorts here. Fortunately, they aren't needed.
The town itself, nestled against a mountainside overlooking the Chihuahuan desert, is a natural host to the steady stream of year-round visitors who fall in love with the sounds, smells and motions of the eclectic, rustic and isolated village.
Often described as a revived ghost town, Real offers the pristine scenery, hospitality and vibrant local atmosphere that appeals to travelers who want to mingle with, and learn from, locals who hold fast to their religious and sacred traditions.
Noted for its contemporary arts scene, Real is a unique combination of the eclectic and the traditional.
It took us about eight hours to drive here from Laredo — it's on the road to Mexico City — but the true adventure didn't begin until we turned onto the 15-mile-long cobblestone road outside Cedral, which climbs 4,000 feet up the eastern side of the Catorce mountain range. The bone-jarring ride ended at the entrance to a single-lane former mine shaft tunnel that links the outside world to this once-glorious town.
Only one car at a time can enter the 1.5-mile tunnel, so we waited while a local porter got clearance relayed from the other end, and waved us through.
Emerging from the dimly lighted tunnel is like stepping from a portal into another era. In Real, life takes place on misshapen, stone streets. By foot or hoof, residents, and an increasing number of visitors, buzz about the alleys and dusty roads. Vendors selling fresh gorditas line the roadway and tiny, metal milagros — not asphalt — paves the way into the heart of the town.
Real, at 9,000 feet, overlooks the Chihuahuan desert lowlands. In the 18th century, the region attracted Spanish explorers who discovered silver in the surrounding Catorce mountains. Despite it's remote location, the town rapidly flourished into a thriving cosmopolitan outpost.
At its height, Real and the surrounding area boasted 40,000 people, two ornate cathedrals, a bull ring, a coin mint, a trolley line and an opera house. But all the wealth and grandeur born from silver mining swiftly came to an end in the early 1900s with the onset of the Mexican Revolution. By 1920, only 250 people called Real home.
Fast forward to the present: The town has seen a rapid transformation from the destitute village it had become. Though the population is still only a fraction of what it was during its heyday, the mountain village has certainly risen. Visitors once again flock to the tiny town of ruins, this time not for silver but for stunning views, a taste of cultural tradition, an emerging arts scene and for many, religious customs.
"Some come for the peace and quiet ... others for the mystic aspects of the place," says Humberto Fernandez, who opened a hotel in Real 35 years ago. Fernandez and his wife, Corenelia Ramseier, from Switzerland, have watched as the town flourished into a hot destination and now they host tourists from around the world.
For thousands of years the Huichol Indians of Western Mexico have considered this area sacred ground, the birthplace of their culture. Once a year, they return to the area on a pilgrimage to honor their roots.
In early October, thousands of Christian pilgrims and onlookers flock to Real, the town of miracles, to pay homage to the town's patron saint, St. Francis of Assisi, an Italian Catholic commonly referred to as Panchito. More than 15,000 visitors come for the week-long celebration each year to commemorate Panchito's birth.
According to devotees, St. Francis, patron saint of animals and the environment who founded the Franciscan order of priests, is responsible for countless miracles. A section of the Parish of the Immaculate Conception Cathedral in Real is reserved for thousands of hand-drawn retablos, or small oil paintings on tin plates, created and hung on the cathedral's walls by thankful worshipers.
Hotels in Real de Catorce all share the rustic charm of the town with some offering more modern facilities and comfort such as high-speed Internet, cable television and telephone service. And there is a surprising selection of local and exotic cuisine. There are popular Italian and Mediterranean restaurants in a few of the town's hotels in addition to numerous street vendors who cook traditional dishes. Two Internet cafes offer network access and delicious coffee and pastries. There also is a small supermarket stocked with fresh produce and staple foods.
The town center is steep but easily traversed by foot. (Be sure to bring comfortable walking shoes or hiking boots as the cobblestone streets are steep and uneven.) Local guides offer tours of town or can arrange short treks into the mountains via horseback or jeep. Guides are abundant.
The areas around Real de Catorce, both in the mountains and the desert plains, offer excellent hiking and clean, crisp air. Art galleries and local shops line the streets near Hidalgo Plaza, the central plaza which has tall trees and a gazebo. Take an evening stroll and you'll find the favorite spot for Real's youths to gather. With luck, you might wander upon the occasional and picturesque street serenade. During the summer, traveling musicians perform live shows at the Palenque de Gallos, the town's rooster-fighting ring which is now used for musical and cultural shows. The town still holds occasional rooster fights.
Plan to spend three or four days here so you'll have time to explore and to visit with the local residents. The unhurried pace is at the core of the town's character, one that is a welcome and charming reprieve from the complexity of hectic schedules and the urban atmosphere. Here, days begin with the crowing of roosters and continue with the rhythm of the parish bells.
Despite the influx of tourists, Real's unique charm is intact, and the town graciously offers its best to those who take time to absorb it.
jsanhuezalyon@mac.com; 445-3685.
If you go ...
Getting there: We drove, but you can also fly to Saltillo or Monterrey. From Monterrey or Saltillo, you'll need to take a bus to Matehuala, then catch another bus to Real de Catorce. A new airline (vivaaerobus.com) will offer nonstop flights from Austin to Monterrey in 2008. Information about getting there: www.realdecatorce.net/toinie.htm.
Unfortunately flying to Real de Catorce could potentially take as long as driving there, and most likely cost much more. If you are driving, make sure your car is not only highway worthy but also somewhat all-terrain worthy. Locals will drive almost anything up the cobblestone highway that takes you to Real, but a city dweller from Austin might be better off in a sturdy sport utility vehicle or all wheel drive vehicle.
Lodging: Meson del Refugio, a new, fancier hotel built into the ruins of a building that dates back to the 17th century. Modern facilities. Rooms from $75 a night, low season (all times except July, August, December, Easter, national holidays and weekends, which are considered high season). meson
delrefugio.net.
Meson de la Abundancia starts at $55 per night. www.mesonabundancia.com.
The Hotel El Real has been in business for 35 years. Rooms start at $45 per night. www.hotelelreal.com.
El Angel y el Corazon starts at $65 per night for hotel rooms, $120 per night for apartments. www.realdecatorce.net/elangel.
Other accommodations: www.realde14.net/town/hotels.html.
You can get a good map of the city at www.hotelelreal.com/mapa.html or find information at www.realde14.net/index.html and www.realdecatorce.net. |
| |
|
Vallarta Weddings
Tell a Friend
Site Map
Print this Page
Email Us