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 Travel & Outdoors | March 2008 
Lavish Los Cabos: The Best Places to Splurge, and a Few Ways to Save
 Maribeth Mellin - McClatchy Newspapers
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| | Rigoberto Rodriguez hits his tee shot on the par 3 number 16 seaside hole at Cabo Real near Cabo San Lucas, Baja California, Mexico. (Fort Worth Star-Telegram) | | |
The sun took its last bow beyond the rock arch at the tip of Baja California as a waiter appeared with the French Riviera's menu. Hours passed as I dined on lobster with truffle vinaigrette, sea bass poached in black olive oil, tangy sorbet, crunchy rolls and fine French wine.
Near midnight, back at my hotel, women in strappy dresses wafted toward the lights pulsing beneath the lobby stairs down to Passion, the hottest club in Los Cabos, Mexico. Retreating far from the DJ's bandstand to my chic suite with its MP3 dock, plasma TV and espresso machine, I opened glass doors to the music of waves slapping on sand and slept the sleep of the righteously pampered.
The tab for that one self-indulgent meal and night's lodgings (for one person) ran somewhere around $500 - far more than my husband and I used to spend for entire Los Cabos vacations.
When we first started traveling to Cabo in the early 1980s, luxury meant a mattress with box springs rather than a cement slab, an air-conditioner (usually rattling in the window) and a TV with a couple of English-language channels. Most nights we'd camp in a trailer park beside dusty RVs. Special occasions merited a splurge at the Hotel Solmar, where I doubt we spent more than $70 per night.
Now, just up the beach from our old digs at the Solmar, workers are building the 66-suite Capella Resort and Spa. When it's completed in fall 2008, guests will pay $1,000 or more per night at what developer Juan Diiaz Rivera calls "the finest hotel in North America."
Over the past two decades, Los Cabos has evolved into the priciest vacation destination in Mexico, with a half-dozen hotels that regularly appear on international best lists. Several championship-level golf courses, fabulous spas and gourmet restaurants amuse Cabo's dedicated celebrity following. Beds are dressed in Egyptian and Italian linens and the televisions are larger than the old-time scratchy bath towels used to be. Private plunge pools, whirlpool bathtubs, rain showers and exclusive toiletries are already passee, and visionaries are constantly racing to create the next over-the-top resort with amenities most of us can't even imagine.
The Mexican government began developing the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula in 1974, combining the towns of San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas and the 18-mile-long stretch of barren land between the two (the Corridor) into a resort called Los Cabos (often shortened to Cabo).
Golf courses started appearing along Tthe Corridor in the 1990s, covering rocky canyons and mesas with velvety fairways. As I toured one of the first courses a decade ago, the developer told me, "We're aiming to be the Hawaii of the `50s, not the Cancun of the '80s." Maui was often mentioned as the ideal beach resort for an upscale clientele, and tourism officials insisted Los Cabos would become the ritziest vacation destination in North America.
The Corridor was divided into mega resorts - Cabo Real, Cabo del Sol, Palmilla - with multiple golf courses, hotels and private villas facing fairways and man-made beaches. Venerable lodges with landing strips for private planes were transformed into elegant hideaways. Jets began arriving daily at Los Cabos International Airport, depositing passengers at buildings just a step above huts.
I came to comprehend Cabo's transformation in 1997, when my husband and I drove Baja's entire 1,000-mile-long Transpeninsular Highway from San Diego to Los Cabos in our `84 Chevy Impala. By the time we arrived at Cabo's brand-new Las Ventanas Resort, the car was covered in layers of sandy grit and the trunk looked like a watersports shop run amuck.
A uniformed porter graciously loaded our fins, wet suits, fishing poles and duffle bags on a cart and a valet stashed the car far out of sight. A concierge led us to a suite that still stands out as one of the finest I've ever experienced. Every inch of the place was handcrafted, from the inlaid stone floors to the hand-carved trunk at the foot of a regal bed. A telescope pointed toward the Sea of Cortez and there was a terrace as big as our living room back home. I thought about stashing our gear in the immense bathtub, then noted jars filled with skin-soothing potions. I plunged in sans mask and fins and luxuriated in bubbles while sampling the smooth tequila and spicy almonds presented as an in-suite amenity. Funny how the high life grows on one so quickly.
The upscale boom continued. Las Ventanas, sister to Rosewood Hotels' Mansion at Turtle Creek in Dallas, upped the ante for every hotel in Los Cabos - and established an oft-emulated minimalist desert architecture and design.
The serene Palmilla, built in 1956 and buried in an oasis of palms, underwent a makeover in 2003 and 2004, reopening as the One&Only Palmilla. Private butlers catered to guests staying in over-the-top suites, and famed chef Charlie Trotter took over the gourmet restaurant. John Travolta celebrated his 50th birthday with a few dozen friends at the hotel shortly after the opening.
Around the same time, Mexican architect Jacobo Micha created the stunning Marquis Los Cabos with soaring archways and niches for the owner's impressive sculpture collection. More recently, designer Dodd Mitchell brought a high-energy Los Angeles style into San Jose's laid-back beach scene with his design for the new all-suites Cabo Azul Resort & Spa.
Melia hotels slipped a bit of Madrid into Cabo San Lucas with the opening of the sexy ME hotel and fiery Passion nightclub.
I recently spent a week in Los Cabos changing hotels nightly and trying to catch up with progress. Certain developments left me longing for the good old days - I'll never get used to seeing the gigantic Costco in the Corridor or the Commercial Mexicana supermarket blocking the sea view at San Josee del Cabo's hotel zone.
The nightlife scene is as hot and happening as ever, and is still centered on Cabo Wabo and Squid Roe in Cabo San Lucas. Some nights it seems as if every college student in Southern California has decided spring break takes place year-round down here. There is a classier side to this town, though. A certain hip vibe attracts foodies to Nick-San's peerless sushi bar and jazz lovers to Sancho Panza Wine Bistro. The marina is packed with handsome yachts, and annual fishing tournaments offer million-dollar jackpots.
The trendsetting ME Cabo and new Casa Dorado hotel next door overlook Playa Medano, the area's best beach for partying, sunbathing and zipping around on WaveRunners. The two hotels have improved the San Lucas lodging scene considerably, especially for travelers seeking abundant dining and nightlife options within walking distance of their beds. At the once-peaceful Hotel Solmar, construction is under way on 600 new guest rooms and 100 residences. The Villa Group, with three hotels on the beach catering to families and upscale couples alike, recently opened its Desert Spa, the largest in the area at an amazing 31,000 square feet. Like every part of Los Cabos, San Lucas is booming.
The Corridor is still the ritziest part of Los Cabos, with million-dollar villas and exclusive hotels overlooking the Sea of Cortez. Restaurants such as the sublime French Riviera cater to homeowners and guests in the area willing to spend $100 and up for a gourmet meal. Should your budget allow such splurges, the Corridor has just about anything you might want or need. I spent a few nights bouncing from hotel to hotel, experiencing extraordinary beds, baths and butlers on hand to iron my dinner clothes or deliver movies and music for in-suite entertainment centers.
I ended my trip, as I often do, at Casa Nataliia in San Jose del Cabo. This peaceful boutique inn by the town's main plaza is a comfortable retreat within steps of the vibrant arts scene. San Jose recently underwent a major revitalization effort around Plaza Mijares and looks better than ever. Boutique hotels, gourmet restaurants and an increasing number of classy art galleries line the jacaranda-shaded streets around the plaza. The town has the feel of mainland Mexico, with families gathered around the church and plaza on weekend evenings.
Just north of town, construction continues at Puerto Los Cabos, an ambitious 2,000-acre development with a new marina and an 18-hole golf course with nine holes designed by Jack Nicklaus and nine by Greg Norman. Beachfront lots are selling for $5 million and more. It seems there's no end to the high life in Los Cabos.
IF YOU GO:
WORTHY SPLURGES
Up on the roof: Skip the whole beach scene and book the rooftop suite at Casa Natalia beside Plaza Mijares in San Jose. Your terrace, $465 a night and buried in bougainvillea, comes with hammocks and a hot tub; handcrafted masks and tapestries brighten the simple white room furnished with a cozy couch, art books and a king-sized bed blessedly free of fussy pillows and useless comforters. At night, the inn's courtyard Mi Cocina restaurant glows in the light of flaming torches and it's easy to pass many hours with friends over rounds of brie, steamed clams, lemon tarts and red wine. Guests feel so at home they return annually for anniversaries and romantic escapes.
Sushi: Set the menu (and the soy sauce) aside if you happen to get a seat in front of co-owner Angel Carbajal at Nick-San sushi bar in Cabo San Lucas. Let the master decide how to prepare his freshly caught tuna or wahoo - but make sure he adds his signature killer cilantro sauce to at least one dish. You'll spend a small fortune on numerous plates of tiny tidbits (around $50 for one), but your taste buds will be forever grateful. All of Nick-San's chefs are immensely talented and they're working with impeccably fresh ingredients.
Beside the pool: Los Cabos has the dubious distinction of being a beach resort with precious few safe places to swim in the sea. If you plan to spend most of your time in the water, choose a hotel with a spectacular pool. At the Marquis Los Cabos, a ribbon of water slithers snakelike just above the sand, reflecting clouds and palm fronds in a pool that seems to blend into the horizon. A waterfall splashes into a second pool by Dos Mares restaurant (great ceviche), and the casitas have private pools.
Indulge: Treatments at the private villas at the spa at the One&Only Palmilla are the ultimate indulgence. Hidden behind gates, the villas have whirlpool tubs, rainshowers, daybeds and spacious treatment rooms where expert therapists perform miracles on weary muscles (one- hour deep tissue massage, $140 with hotel room).
Get out: Experience Baja's natural beauty on a Baja Wild off-road Jeep safari ($410 for four) into the Sierra de la Laguna to small mountain ranches, deserted wilderness and a cool waterfall. Or join the company's snorkeling trip to Cabo Pulmo, a small village where fish swarm over coral reefs just offshore.
Artful shopping: Instead of buying bundles of souvenir trinkets, purchase collector-quality folk art at Veryka, a San Jose branch of the famed Oaxacan gallery by the same name. The shiny black pottery, intricate tree-of-life sculptures and embroidered huipiles (dresses) are displayed as if in a museum. Don't miss the Day of the Dead altar in October.
Nature: Leave Los Cabos behind for at least one night to sample Baja's natural side at Posada la Poza in Todos Santos. Snowy egrets, blue herons and black-necked stilts frequent the lagoon in front of the seven-suite hotel. Frigates, ospreys and brown pelicans skim the surf within easy view of the secluded pool. Guests paddle rowboats and kayaks through the lagoon to the beach, spotting whales spouting in the Pacific. Binoculars are available in the suites; TVs are nonexistent and hardly missed.
BUDGET TIPS
Travelers on tight budgets have a hard time enjoying Los Cabos. But there are ways to stretch your dollars and have a bit left over to sample the high life.
Hotels: Skip the fancy resorts. Room rates at Los Milagros, a delightful 12-room inn on a quiet side street in Cabo San Lucas, start at just $85 a night. Siesta Suites, also in San Lucas, charges $69 and up for a double. The sheets may not be Frette, but rooms at both places are clean and comfortable and the staff and guests are eager to share money-saving tips.
Take the heat: Room rates drop in Los Cabos as the mercury soars above 90 degrees. At Las Ventanas, the least expensive garden-view suite drops from $725 to $500 per night in late May. At the Marquis Los Cabos, the rate for an ocean-view suite drops from $470 to $380 on June 1. The summer heat can be intense, but early morning and evening are pleasant and these plush suites are lovely hideaways during the middle of the day.
Take the bus: Taxi fares are the biggest boondoggle in the land of $800-a-night suites. Drivers charge $40 or more to travel between San Jose and San Lucas, and $20 from most Corridor hotels to either town. The public bus runs every half-hour between the two towns and stops near most Corridor hotels. The fare is less than $2. If you must take a cab, gather a group to share the fare.
Rent a car: It helps to have wheels if you want to explore the area and check out sights along the Corridor, but you won't need one for your entire stay. Hang around town at the beginning of your trip and walk to beaches, clubs and restaurants. Rent a car for the last few days and save the equivalent of one day's rate by arranging to drop the car at the airport rather than taking a cab. Rates are typically lowest online - if you didn't plan ahead, stop by a net an Internet cafe and arrange your rental online.
Eat like the locals: Wander a few streets away from the tourist areas to find taco stands, cafes and markets with low prices marked in pesos rather than dollars. Among the many taco stands, Taqueriia el Ahorcado in San Josee is packed with locals at dinnertime, as is El Michoacano in San Lucas. Pick up a roasted chicken, beans, rice and tortillas at Pollo de Oro outlets in both towns for a low-cost feast, and shop for bread and pastries at panaderiias and produce at the Mercado Municipal in San Josee.
Splurge wisely: Instead of indulging in a full dinner at the French Riviera, visit its Patisserie in San Jose. The crepes, pastries and ice creams are sublime, and the clientele sipping espressos includes artists, musicians and professionals from the pricey hotels. Also: Stick with the catch of the day entrees at pricier restaurants. The steaks, lobster and other costly fare usually aren't anywhere near as tasty. Linger over late lunches and rely on groceries for breakfast and dinner.
Tour a time-share: If you're willing to give up a morning to tour a time-share or fractional ownership property (and can resist a high-pressure sales pitch) you could walk away with vouchers for a free day's car rental, a sunset cruise, spa treatments, free meals and other giveaways. It's one way to check out how the other half vacations.
HOTELS AND SPAS
-Starting rates over $200 a night
Cabo Azul Resort and Spa, $465, 877-216-2226, www.caboazulresort.com
Casa Natalia, $295, 888-277-3814, www.casanatalia.com
Las Ventanas, $795, 888-767-3966, www.lasventanas.com
Marquis Los Cabos, $470, 877-238-9399, www.marquisloscabos.com
ME Cabo, $279, 888-956-3542, Mebymelia.com
One&Only Palmilla, $650, 866-829-2977, www.oneandonlyresorts.com
-$195 and under
Siesta Suites, $69, 866-271-0952, www.cabosiestasuites.com
Los Milagros, $85, 718-928-6647, www.losmilagros.com.mx
Posada la Poza, $195, www.lapoza.com
TOURS
Baja Wild, www.bajawild.com
INFORMATION
Los Cabos Convention Visitors Bureau, 866-LOS-CABOS, www.visitloscabos.travel |
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