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 Travel & Outdoors | April 2008 
The Town That Tequila Built
 Luke Sheldon - PVNN
| | Situated in the central Mexican state of Jalisco, Tequila is the home of centuries-old traditions that are still used to make Mexico's signature liquor. (Click video to play) | | |
Situated in the central Mexican state of Jalisco, Tequila is the home of centuries-old traditions that are still used to make Mexico's signature liquor. Once in the city, visitors can tour the various distilleries and discover how the town's famous export is made - and sample the various Tequilas being processed.
Tequila's origins lie with the indigenous Aztec peoples of Mexico, the Chichimecans, Otomies, Toltecans and Nahuatls who made a beverage from the agave plant long before the Spaniards arrived in April of 1530.
Today, Tequila is a small but beautiful town of bars and distilleries. The blue Agave plants against the desert backdrop are a sight to behold and the creation of this fascinating Mexican produce makes for a great day out.
The town is a short way from Guadalajara and around four hours from Vallarta. The road to Tequila is long and winding, it's a testing racetrack that climbs up and down following the whims of the desert rock.
A landscape of vast dirt expanse and mountains split apart by the asphalt, a path inhabited by gargantuan lorries. The view on the drive up is beautiful, the scenery is movie-Mexican with an ancient atmosphere.
Apparently it's an arduous route traveled by pilgrims on foot following Semana Santa. They traveled toward God and we drove toward alcohol. A master less rewarding perhaps, but good comfort to dry-mouthed heathen who find solace and sanctuary at the altar of bars; cultural beacons that exist solely for the pleasure of seating together story tellers and thinkers, the opinionated and the patient listeners for a valuable and fleeting moment in time. The bar closes and the perfect chaotic ramblings of its pilgrims are devoured forever by that relentless haste toward the end of everything.
We drove through never-ending fields of the famous blue Agave, the pineapple-type plant used to make the drink. The ancient tradition of growing the Agave for fermentation led to the region being awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2006.
The process of turning the plants into drink goes back to the 16th century and even further back by the indigenous people who fermented the plant through different methods. The town is beautiful with a colonial feel and a church as the centerpiece. The kids come out from school and fill the main square with shouting and laughing around 6 pm, reminding tourists that people actually live there.
Tequila is a modest sized town made up of the local homes, mansions, bars, and distilleries. Buses from Guadalajara are frequent. The two main fiesta dates observed in Tequila each year are "El Dia de la Santa Cruz" on May 3rd and "La Señora de la Salud" on December 8th. There's also an annual "Feria Nacional de Tequila" celebration every year from Nov 29th-Dec 13th.
We sat in a bar around 5 and ordered Tequila. It came as a 3 shot glass of clear smooth drink costing next to nothing. Lime and salt for those with more vulnerable insides, although obviously just utilized by tourists.
The clientele at the bar were Mexican through and through. They were workers and lorry drivers sporting sombreros and moustaches both grande in size. A cool breeze flushed through the screen doors, carrying sweet smells of the surrounding crops.
Random photos and posters of nudes and landscapes entertained the eye, and a collection of impressive soccer trophies let us know that this particular bar supported a good team on the local sporting circuit.
A tour of one of the many distilleries will fill you in on the details. The plant is grown for eight years before its harvested then chopped up and cooked in ovens for around three days. The softened plant is juiced and this liquid is fermented, usually with some added yeast.
Most will admit that its fine for the Tequila to not be aged, but if it sits in oak barrels for more than a year it becomes smoother (Añejo). Tequila that's been rested for a few months (Reposado) takes on a sharp and peppery taste, and gold Tequila (Oro) usually has caramel or sugar added.
But white (Blanco) and silver (Plata) retain an Agave flavor and are considered to be very good. All of the tours usually finish around 4 pm each day, costing around $35 to $100 pesos - depending on where you go.
It's unlikely you'll need to stay for more than a day to soak it all up and to have a good time. The experience is definitely well worth the travel if you're a fan of Tequila or want to become a convert to the joys of good quality Mexican produce. Of course, if you abstain, it's still an interesting trip - just a little less hands-on.
As we drove away again along the mad snake road we sat back and talked of nothing much, letting the sweet air flow past. The good Tequila has a funny aftertaste that gives rest to the restless.
The town may not provide the same forgiveness and spirituality awarded to the pilgrims after a long desert trek, but it's an adventure none the less. Or at the very least, a new affinity with something unashamedly Mexican. |
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