| | |  Travel & Outdoors | July 2008 
Baja Bliss
 Lydia Kremer - The Desert Sun
go to original
| | (Mexico.vg) | | |
Feeling triumphant for having survived yet another whirlwind season in the desert, my husband and I were yearning for a getaway to celebrate his birthday in April. Baja's Sea of Cortez seemed the perfect choice - close enough (La Paz is short two-hour flight from LAX) yet a world away.
Also, because La Paz means "the peace" in Spanish, it sounded like just the type of place for some much-needed R&R we were seeking, plus it was an ideal place where Alex could indulge his favorite hobby - sport fishing.
With visions of the region's tranquil beauty, we excitedly awaited our flight at LAX. Our anticipation was heightened while chatting with a young man who told us he had fallen in love with La Paz and moved down there a few months ago. A life coach (I think that's a 21st century cheerleader) who works with clients around the U.S., he told us he easily conducts his business from his home in La Paz. "I have an Orange County phone number and when my clients call me they don't know I'm in La Paz." He told us he helps people "find their bliss" and helps them create it. He gushed that he had found his in La Paz. We couldn't wait.
From the air you can easily see that Baja California Sur is a long peninsula that is basically an extension of California. The 1000-mile-long peninsula straddles two coasts - the Pacific Ocean to the west and the legendary Sea of Cortez on the east.
La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, is the perfect gateway to the Sea of Cortez. It's a colonial city with a population of approximately 300,000, although it appears smaller as most residents live on the outskirts of town. While Cabo San Lucas, 130 miles to the south, has a livelier reputation that attracts more American "turistas," La Paz is more of a sleepy fishing village without much flash or nightlife. This suits locals and visitors to La Paz just fine. Locals pride themselves on the town's un-Cabo-like character and it was the perfect tempo for our getaway.
La Paz sits on a wide sparkling bay ("bahia" in Spanish) whose views can best be enjoyed from the malecón, a waterfront promenade punctuated by public art and benches that offer the best front row views of nightly spectacular sunsets. We had the good fortune of having expansive unobstructed views of the bahia, the marina and post card sunsets from our balcony at the Hotel Marina.
The malecón also features a small pier and a music gazebo which is the town's center for convivial community events.
A storied Sea
The Sea of Cortez captivated adventurers since 1535 when the Spanish explorer Hernan Cortez first laid eyes on the azure waters dotted with numerous tiny islands. The local inhabitants were none too welcoming, however, and resisted any attempts by Cortez and other Spanish conquistadores to colonize. Long about 1720, the Jesuit missionaries were successful in establishing the Nuestra Señora del Pilar de la Paz mission. This was the first of many missions that eventually extended northward throughout California.
Since then the Sea has seduced pirates and many notables such as John Steinbeck, Clark Gable, and Jacques Cousteau. What has drawn all of them is the enchantment of the Sea of Cortez. Whether it was for the purpose of exploring, navigating or fishing, the Sea has enthralled all the adventurous souls who have encountered it. We were no exception.
When Spaniards first ventured into the Sea of Cortez in the 1500s they encountered a rich sea of oyster pearls. Stories of abundant pearls and riches fueled legends that traveled back to Spain. Indeed, pearls were a lucrative business in La Paz until an epizootic disease killed off the entire pearl-oyster population sometime after World War ll.
While on an expedition with a biologist friend in 1940 to gather fish specimens, John Steinbeck also fell under the spell of the fabled Sea of Cortez. From his book, "The Log from the Sea of Cortez" Steinbeck wrote: "The abundance of life here gives one an exuberance, a feeling of fullness and richness. The playing of porpoises, the turtles, the great schools of fish which ruffle the water surface like a quick breeze, make for excitement."
During the months he spent at the Sea of Cortez, Steinbeck had been told about a mythical story about a poor fisherman that finds a magnificent pearl which causes him more tragedy than the riches he expected. This inspired Steinbeck's novella "The Pearl" which he wrote in 1947. It's a cautionary tale about greed and was later made into a Spanish language film. Steinbeck was deeply affected by the beauty and people of Baja and his observations were among the earliest by an author of international stature.
A natural wonder
The Sea of Cortez is an undisputed eco-paradise. The Sea has 244 islands, all were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. The islands are home to 695 plant species and 891 fish species, 90 of them endemic. This explains why Jacques Cousteau referred to the Sea of Cortez as the world's aquarium and why the Sea is regarded as one of the top ten diving spots in the world.
From the tip of the La Paz Bahia at Playa el Tecolote, we hoisted ourselves onto a fiberglass skiff called a panga and set off to the closest islands, Isla Espíritu Santo (Holy Spirit Island). We spent a good part of the day cruising the crystal blue water around the entire island. It was a feast for the senses with stunning sights of dramatic rock formations and abundant sea life. Because it's a preserve, the island is uninhabited except for a boisterous colony of sea lions, a variety of birds and the islands endemic black jackrabbit. In these waters you'll find a living coral reef which makes for fabulous snorkeling, too. At one of the spots, the boat's captain anchored so we could snorkel and swim among the sea lions who were courteous hosts and took our presence in stride.
And, of course, the Sea of Cortez is legendary for world-class fishing. The variety of fish in the Sea of Cortez and the great depth of the water so close to the shoreline are apparently what give the region its stellar rep for fishing. Clark Gable used to come here to fish for marlin. You can see an old photo of him posing with an impressive catch in the bar at Los Arcos Hotel, in downtown La Paz.
The Hotel Marina was able to arrange for Alex to charter a fishing boat and he was like an excited kid heading off on his first day of summer camp. Tired but exuberant, he returned with more than 20 pounds of mahi mahi. His birthday wish was fulfilled.
The hotel's restaurant prepared a wonderful dinner for us that evening with the freshly-caught fish-the ceviche was superb. They will also flash freeze the fish and package it for you to take home. We came to understand why saw so many men at LAX were checking in large coolers. Note to self: next time take a cooler.
Not all saints in Todos Santos
While Alex was communing with the fishes, I took a day trip to see some of the other Baja highlights. About an hour away by car from La Paz you'll discover the enchanting coastal village of Todos Santos - translation: all saints. Named one of Mexico's 23 "Pueblo Magico," Todos Santos is a one of Baja's must-see towns.
Situated on the Pacific side of the Baja Peninsula, Todos Santos is a small artsy enclave of surfers, bohemians and sanctuary-seeking American expats. The cultural stew has assimilated with the Mexican families who have inhabited the town for generations.
The town has an underground spring that makes for ideal farming conditions, hence, the town is very green with robust agriculture. The main street has colorful cafes, boutiques and a historical/cultural center. Although quite small, Todos Santos is decidedly more sophisticated and trendy than La Paz with a distinctively artistic ambiance.
But it seems there is some trouble in paradise. We were later told by an American woman living in La Paz that the quaint charm of Todos Santos belies some tension in the community between the expats and the locals which has led to some isolated incidents of violence.
It made me appreciate La Paz's peaceful moniker even more so. There's a decidedly laid-back "mañana" approach to life in La Paz, but the secret is out. This sleepy, peaceful haven has been discovered by speculators and developers who are planning several major resorts. The good news: peace can still be had in La Paz if you go soon.
Lydia Kremer is freelance travel writer in Palm Springs. She can be reached at LydiaLane(at)aol.com |
|
| |
Vallarta Weddings
Tell a Friend
Site Map
Print this Page
Email Us