Planners had Small Ambitions for Huatulco
 Claire Walter - Miami Herald
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January 18, 2010
| | Rather than one long strip of sand, Huatulco is made up of a series of rock-rimmed bays notched into a 21-mile stretch of Pacific coast in the southern state of Oaxaca. | |
Huatulco, Mexico - Like Baby Bear's porridge, Huatulco (pronounced Wa-tool-co) is a "just right" resort on Mexico's Pacific coast. This beach resort is not so big that it has big-city crowds, and it's not so small that it's boring. It is scenically stunning, planned to enhance the natural setting and protect the environment.
FONATUR, the government agency charged with bringing tourists and jobs to once-remote areas along the country's nearly 6,000 miles of coastline, created Huatulco beginning in the mid-1980s, with build-out anticipated by 2020. In an unprecedented decision, 70 percent of the land will remain undeveloped, unheard of in Acapulco, Cancun, Puerto Vallarta or even the spread-out hotel zone between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo on the southern tip of Baja California.
Rather than one long strip of sand, Huatulco is made up of a series of rock-rimmed bays notched into a 21-mile stretch of Pacific coast in the southern state of Oaxaca. The resort's full name is Las Bahías de Huatulco (The Bays of Huatulco).
LUXURY RESORTS
The most luxurious properties are set around Tangolunda Bay, where Huatulco's 18-hole, par-72 golf course is also found. Conejos Bay to the east has been lightly built up, while Chahué Bay to the west holds mid-priced hotels and condominiums, the public marina and a small, commercial area. From the sea, each bay resembles a coastal village. The oddball blend of Mediterranean/Moroccan/Mexican architectural styles works. Harmonious stucco buildings, many of them whitewashed, are at water's edge or cling to the slopes above.
Santa Cruz Bay, location of the fishing village that preceded present-day Huatulco, is now the site of the resort's cruise-ship pier that accommodates only two ships at a time, so Huatulco, with a population of roughly 25,000, does not feel overrun. Literally steps away are a pair of clean beaches and a lively little commercial area of shops, restaurants and an artisans' market catering to passengers.
While even the largest resorts are not high-rise, they are full-service, which includes shuttles between hillside accommodations and the closest beach. Several operate on the all-inclusive format with meals, activities, entertainment and even childcare wrapped into one price. Some visitors never leave their resort, preferring to spend languorous days dipping into the sea or a pristine swimming pool, lounging in the sun or under a shady palapa, indulging in spa treatments and generally getting away from it all.
Just five of the nine bays are developed, each with a cluster of hotels and several lovely, little beaches. Some have calm waters for swimming and snorkeling, while others are best for sunbathing and relaxing with safer swimming in lavish hotel pools.
Locals and escapist visitors prefer undeveloped beaches. Punta Arena, one of Conejos Bay's three beaches, and La Bocana are known for strong waves and a surf season that runs from November through February. Maguey beach is known for its good snorkeling and excellent beach restaurants. The isolated beaches of Organo, Cacaluta and Cachacual Bays are accessible only by boat and have no infrastructure at all, so BYO food and water.
Other accessible land and sea activities include deep-sea fishing, sea kayaking, mountain biking, rafting or kayaking on the Copalita River, riding a zipline, rock climbing, horseback riding, and visiting coffee plantations and magical waterfalls in the nearby Sierra Madre mountains. Resort concierges help guests organize excursions.
GOING TO HUATULCO
• Getting there: Huatulco's airport is served by year-round scheduled Mexicana/Interjet service from Mexico City, seasonal non-stop service from Houston via Continental Express, charter flights from the United States and Canada, and Aerotucán and Aerovega commuter flights (and also luxury bus) from the state capital of Oaxaca. Travel from Miami takes at least 6-7 hours, with a stop in Houston or Mexico City.
• Getting around: In addition to hotel shuttles and taxis, public transportation ranges from barebones local buses to luxurious, air-conditioned buses that serve Oaxaca (seven hours away).
• Information: Asociación de Hoteles y Moteles de Bahías de Huatulco, 011-52 958-581-0486; wwww.hoteleshuatulco.com.mx.
WHERE TO STAY
• Barceló Resort - Contemporary Mexican resort built around a landscaped pool complex. Fine beach, tennis, nine-hole practice golf course, fitness center, aquatic sports center, children's program. All-inclusive format from $300. Blvd. Benito Juárez S/N, Bahías de Huatulco, Oaxaca, 800-227-2356; www.barcelo.com/Huatulco.
• Mision de los Arcos - Boutique hotel that appeals to business travelers and thrifty vacationers. Simple, clean and comfortable rooms, many with private balconies; some garden suites. In-town location near plaza. From $35. Gardenia 902, Bahías de Huatulco, Oaxaca, www.misiondelosarcos.com.
• Quinta Real - Huatulco's most luxurious resort with just 28 exquisitely furnished villa suites. Top-drawer services and La Cuija, one of Huatulco's best restaurants. Fanciful, romantic and tasteful Moorish-inspired design, with two infinity pools. From $160, plus 19 percent tax. Paseo Benito Juarez Lote 2, Huatulco, Oaxaca, 866-621-9288; www.quintareal.com.
• Camino Real Zaashila - Mediterranean design and Mexican colors. Palm-lined, quarter-mile beach plus 500-foot, free-form pool. Also, a second pool, tennis, three restaurants, two bars, fitness center and children's program. All 120 rooms have a private balcony or terrace, 41 with a private plunge pool. From $150. Blvd. Benito Juárez Lote 5, Bahías de Huatulco, Oaxaca; www.camino-zaashila.com.
• Crown Pacific - Ten buildings on a hillside with a unique funicular providing optional transportation between floors. Upper pool deck with stunning views of Tangolunda Bay. All-inclusive format. Three pools (one for children), three restaurants, four bars and activity programs. From $69. Blvd. Benito Juárez no. 8, Bahías de Huatulco, Oaxaca, 001-52-1-958-581-0044; www.crownpacifichuatulco.com.
• Dreams Huatulco Resort & Spa - Opened a year ago after expansion and total makeover of the former Gala Beach Resort. Unlimited-Luxury program includes meals, activities and facilities access - and unlimited alcoholic beverages. Deluxe, amenity-filled suites with restocked mini-bar, seven restaurants, seven bars, pools, fitness center, spa and children's center. Blvd. Benito Juárez 4, Bahías de Huatulco, Oaxaca, 866-2DREAMS; www.dreamsresorts.com/drehu. Rooms from $334. |
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