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Puerto Vallarta News NetworkNews from Around Banderas Bay | June 2005 

Ocean Odyssey
email this pageprint this pageemail usDave Moller - TheUnion.com


This shot shows how much Tom Tennies' boat could sway in calm waters during his journey across the Pacific. Ten-foot swells and sail problems made the 37-foot craft list even more. (Photo: Tom Tennies)
Tom Tennies was looking at death again.

The new sail he and his partner raised was dipping into the Pacific Ocean, taking on water.

"It inflated fast and took the boat to an extreme angle," the Lake Wildwood graphic artist said. "I thought I was going to die."

Tennies, 50, and ship captain Kit Hanes, 68, were on their way to the Marquesas Islands in the South Pacific, sailing 2,650 miles from Puerto Vallarta to fulfill a dream. Hanes, a Washington state resident, had wanted to sail the Pacific for some time, but Tennies was looking within, to see if he could overcome his polio-induced disability on the trip of a lifetime.

But the dream did not include a death wish, and the men managed to right the 37-foot craft and drop the sail. It was a rude awakening to the dangers of the South Pacific.

At that point, Tennies had to wonder what he had gotten himself into. The neophyte sailor was already timing the ship's rolls to step down into the cabin, eat, sleep and sometimes think. But Tennies persevered, realizing he could make it if he kept alert.

Staying awake was just one task Tennies and Hanes had to share and master during their 25-day trip from March 20 to April 14 this year. Hanes had pondered a solo run at first, but Tennies had talked him out of it while talking himself into the trek.

Hanes had gone on cruises before with his partner, Susan Steinbach. Tennies had helped keep track of them on a trip to La Paz, Mexico, coordinating their e-mails to friends, and started getting the bug. When Susan balked at not going across the Pacific, Tennies quickly found himself first mate.

"I thought it would be great to go on," Tennies said. "I generally don't get seasick but I did the first night. After the third day, your body gets acclimated."

The sailors didn't see any ships until landing on Hiva Oa in the islands 22 days later. But they did see thousands of flying fish, "swells up to 10 feet," and a pod of dolphins that swam alongside them.

Hanes made meals on board, while Tennies did the dishes, which tended to slide on the counter at times. Keeping track of the boat occupied time, as did e-mails back to Tennies' wife on the mainland.

"I was worried quite a lot, for him to do this with his handicap," said Judy Tennies. "His left leg doesn't have a lot of muscle and it's hard to balance, I was worried he would fall."

Tennies never did fall badly. He lost the muscle during polio surgery as an infant. He walks, but his left leg can give out on him.

"The toughest thing was the constant motion," Tennies said. "You're being bashed around and you're grasping things all the time." Tennies had to steady himself often. His hands quickly became sore and blistered.

But it wasn't all drudgery.

Catching anywhere from five- to almost 30-knot winds, the sailboat normally ripped through the water with ease. At night, "the stars are just amazing," Tennies said. "We used Orion as a guide at times."

Taking four-hour shifts at night, the pair was able to sail under windpower most hours of the day, with occasional use of the motor to get out of low-wind situations. Baths were done with saltwater every three days and a chance rain provided one fresh water cleansing.

No one had to man the steering wheel because it was locked into a wind vane and a machine that kept it on course. Progress was plotted via the Internet, and the men used a radio for weather updates.

The island came on the computer screen one day, and when Tennies woke up from a nap one morning, the first sight of land was a sheer cliff crashing into the sea.

"It was really pretty emotional," Tennies said. "We rolled into the cove and it was such a relief to have the boat stop and not be rocking and it was so beautiful."

"When you do step on land, you get land sickness. It's kind of like you're drunk, very dizzy," and it was hot. Tennies saw an orange soda in a cooler and immediately downed one.

Satisfied with his feat, Tennies joined his wife for several days of relaxation on the island.

"It was like paradise," he said.



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