The Full Treatment
 Sarah Murdoch - National Post
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| | Rio Caliente is situated in 25 acres of pine trees in the midst of Mexico's Primavera Forest, about 45 minutes from Guadalajara, on ancient volcanic mountains. |
Rio Caliente is much beloved by several female media types I know, though it tends not to get written about much. I've always suspected this is because my sister scribes want to hog this wonderful hot-spring retreat all for themselves. I, of course, am above such selfish impulses and will now reveal all.
It is a perfect getaway for one whose soul is ravaged by a cold dark Canadian winter (and whose isn't by February?). First, it is situated in 25 acres of pine trees in the midst of Mexico's Primavera Forest, about 45 minutes from Guadalajara, on ancient volcanic mountains. Which means it almost certainly will be sunny throughout your visit, with hot days and cool nights. It is defiantly unpretentious: simple Mexican-influenced vegetarian grub, served buffet-style (fruit, veg, grains; lunch is the main meal, with a nourishing soup for the main course in the evening); basic spa treatments (massage, mud baths, facials, aromatherapy, with a few New Age flourishes), a robust exercise program(aerobics, aquatics, horseback riding and hiking, but, blessedly, not a StairMaster, rowing machine or exercycle in sight) and friendly people (mostly middle-aged, mostly women, mostly middle class) togged out in their least glamorous attire. And, at $135 a night (based on double occupancy, including food, accommodation and use of most facilities), it is one of the best spa bargains in North America, perhaps the world.
What draws people to Rio Caliente are the waters. The compound is situated atop an ancient underground volcanic lake, and it gushes from the ground at close to 70C. That's too hot for swimming (though you could probably coddle an egg), which is why there are two pools whose waters are changed weekly. When one pool becomes cool enough for swimming (about 32C, so it's deliciously warm, like splashing about in blood), the other pool is emptied and refilled with hot, hot water. No wonder that everywhere you turn there are signs warning guests to check the water before jumping in.
And there's water, water everywhere: two smaller secluded hot-water plunge pools, one for women, one for men, where one can frolic naked, soaking up those beneficial salts and minerals; and a natural steam room filled with the nostril-clearing scent of eucalyptus. Go on a quick wander down to Rio Caliente itself, the river that borders the spa on three sides: You can see the steam rising from it, and its many springs and waterfalls. I was amazed that even the water in the toilet bowl was hot enough to warm my bottom.
All of which explains why much of my visit - and I was typical - was spent near water, mostly poolside, chatting with other guests, petting the horses that wander the grounds, looking forward to the next meal and going early to bed. Day trips are available to surrounding towns (most of us snuck off to a restaurant and had our only alcohol - a cerveza (beer), in my case-of the week.
It was everything a spa holiday should be - warm, watery and bright - a lovely respite from the cold, icy darkness at home. A Five-Night Treat, which I had, costs $885 (single) to $660 (triple).
Visit the website at RioCaliente.com |
Vallarta Weddings
Health & Beauty | January 2008 
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