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 Vallarta Living | March 2007 
Festival Indigena 2007 - A Curious Mix of Ancient and Modern Cultures
 Kathy Taylor - PVNN
| | Huichol Shaman Vicente Rivera with his wife, Artesana Andrea Cesocita de la Croce Cantera | 
| | Traditional Wixaritari art | 
| | A Shaman's tools |
Puerto Vallarta - I visited a Huichol village the other day. I spent a few sacred moments with a Wixaritari shaman, browsed tables laden with intricately beaded and embroidered items, and listened to the high clear mountain song of a pair of ancient musicians.
I did not visit the mountain home of the Wixaritari who inhabit the Sierra Madre Occidental in Jalisco and Nayarit. I visited Plaza Caracol, a modern shopping mall situated in the Hotel Zone in Puerto Vallarta, which is hosting the second annual Festival Indigena.
The Huichol Indians seem even more humble and ancient in this environment. It is as though a museum of ancient culture has been dropped into the middle of the burgeoning middle class hustle that defines Vallarta today.
A handful of Huichol artists and their children sit by tables displaying their art work, art that has roots deep in Mexico's history. The Huicholes are said to be direct descendants of the Aztecs; this Festival is an oasis of culture and ancient civilization in extreme contrast to the merchandising and entertainment hype of the mall atmosphere. It is incongruous, but serves a decent purpose. With careful exposure, the Wixaritari are able to market their art and sustain their traditional homes, practice centuries-old ceremonies and maintain their mythology-based culture.
Respectful of callous exploitation, there are signs everywhere declaring "No Photographs," I explained my mission - to write about the Festival - to Gabriel Mijarez, one of the co-ordinators of Tatei kie, the three-year-old Eculturismo organization that was developed to protect and promote the Huicholes in a thoughtful way.
I asked about photographs, and after some consultation with the community, it was decided that permission would be granted on an individual basis. Gabriel talked about the Festival as we walked around, about San Andres Cohamiata Centro, Mezquito, the real home of these Huichol visitors. The community there is about 3,000 strong and is proud of its Escuela des Artesanas, where traditional arts and ceremonies are taught in an effort to maintain the culture.
My requests were declined by everyone but an old man sitting all alone in a chair under a tent in the middle of this transplanted village. His weathered hand curved over the top of his root cane, a scarf was tied under his chin, and the tools of his trade were laid out at his feet. This is 80 year old Antonio Vicente Rivera, artesano and shaman, who, in lieu of a fire, sits in front of a small mat with a burning candle and baskets of maize and flowers and feathers.
The shaman's wife joins us - Andrea Cesocita de la Croce Cantera is 74 and one of the finest artists in this small community. Her work is intricate and painstakingly detailed. She agrees to pose for me, and I buy a small beaded bowl and beautiful beaded egg. It is my only purchase in the mall that day.
Antonio and Gabriel invite me to return for the ceremonies this coming weekend. On Saturday, March 17th at 7 pm there will be a celebration of the change of the traditional authorities, Patsixa, and on Sunday the 18th at 7 pm, the Wixaritari will perform the Hikuri Neixa, or Peyote Ceremony. All of this in your local mall!
Don't miss your chance to sample the richness of this ancient tribe and to learn more about the age-old customs of the Huichol people. Festival Indigena 2007 continues through March 25th at Plaza Caracol in the Puerto Vallarta Hotel Zone.
2nd Annual Festival Indigena Wixaritari Tatei Kei
Plaza Caracol, Puerto Vallarta - March 10th-25th
SCHEDULE OF EVENTS
• Daily from 10 am to 10 pm - Show of traditional Wixarika arts
• Daily at 6 pm - Traditional and local music shows
• March 17th at 7 pm - Celebration of the change of the traditional authorities (PATSIXA)
• March 18th at 7 pm - The Peyote Ceremony (HIKURI NEIXA)
• March 24th at 7 pm - The celebration of Ezquite and the Burning of the Corn Leafs (XARIKIXA)
• March 25th at 7 pm - The closing celebration with the participation of the civil authorities and the traditional government from San Andres Chamiata, Mezquitic, Jalisco, Mexico.
 Festival Indigena 2007 continues through March 25th at Plaza Caracol in the Puerto Vallarta Hotel Zone.
Map shows location of San Andres Cohamiata Centro, Mezquito, the real home of these Huichol visitors.
 Kathy Taylor is a world traveler, sailor, writer, and cook. Before coming to Vallarta, she lived and worked in the Arctic for CBC Radio Northern Service and was the editor of Churchill's weekly Taiga Times. For 11 years she was Captain Kate of High Boats Café fame in Vancouver, then went on to spend 5 years as owner/chef of Wild Thyme Catering. After that, she spent four years sailing the Pacific Northwest and the Mediterranean, writing about sailboats and her experiences, as well as editing Bluewater Cruising's monthly magazine, "Currents." Following her love of food, sailing and charitable causes, Kathy continues her writing career here in Vallarta as a valuable member of the BanderasNews Team. |
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